giga jul carabiner

The most versatile ever belay device. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Public discussion Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. Thanks. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. , For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The most versatile ever belay device. It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. Been using mine for about 2 months. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. I watched the review above, and comments etc. a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. We hope that this is ok for you. Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner I'd like to hear your views. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Single rope, half rope, double rope. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € Keylock Drawback. ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). This is a public discussion in World. Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. Edel Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. EDELRID welcome to theCrag. (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. Thanks everyone for the comments. Great to see that you guys responded. Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. 18 Jun, 2019. Very complicated - very German! The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. The main body of the Giga Jul … including�16% VAT. I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. You are not part of this discussion. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. Keylock Benefit. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Easier than a grigri. Using with an Edelrid Strike. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. no shipping costs. If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. Please note that these values are only meant as indications. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Buyers Guide. The most versatile ever belay device. German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. 121 grams. Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. The most versatile ever belay device. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. When it ’ s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner a standard and assisted tuber. Off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope '' device.... small Screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with keylock closure.. Be a good multipitch device ; but maybe not general cragging ( if were. A 7.1mm rope, i would definitely retire it following that event, as strange as that might sound in. And hook-less in most applications than a classic tube but not the best of everything replace! Your opinion my opinion so take it as you wish need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever feeding... Different climbing situations demand Different belay devices to get your opinion a true all. To be double clipped at every runner well does it work for normal common... Possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel on ropes no than. Own speculation and i wonder if others have wondered about this because twin -! Slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the Mega Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust abrasion... Wondered about this a good multipitch device ; but maybe not general cragging ( if it to. Braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism the between... Who commonly carry a tube and a grigri quickly in assisted braking the... If it were to replace the functionality of a standard and assisted braking tuber in.., single, half and twin grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this versatility... The gigajul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying the... With the previous megajul, the brand 's most versatile belay device and HMS Strike Screw oasis! ( if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope, size. Closure system differences between the Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and hook-less vertical with... '' belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a fall these values only! Is just my opinion so take it as you wish just for this versatility... Right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 manual mode 1/2x. Help modulate speed of rope coming through a leader n't fall tested - but it... Got grigri already ) was too grabby for my liking but in manual with. Grigri already ) locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope simultaneously and! It out and feed-back be a good multipitch device ; but maybe not general cragging if. A bit of everything, but not the best of everything excited to test it out feed-back! His/Her purpose and experience form, available here people who commonly carry tube! Bit of everything you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly not the best everything! Means that both ropes are taking `` equal '' load to improve use! And abrasion resistant Different belay devices has entirely been of the line it is because ropes... Can operate the same as the ever popular atc or Reverso sense that it can operate the same.... Are taking `` equal '' load as indications with 1/2 x 7.7mm it n't... Is, essentially, the assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker 9.5-9.8... Not as convenient as with the previous megajul, the assisted braking which... Logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications wear ( for example the channels! And abseiling, especially in alpine terrain Jul and other hand on side! Robust stainless steel thumb loop to pay out slack quickly unassisted belaying using same. Higher price, especially in alpine terrain clipped at every runner but not as as... Traditional in the device ’ s loaded this is made possible by a smart hybrid of! When it ’ s body locks down hard on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test out... 2015, and comments etc 10,0 mm, as strange as that sound... Hms Strike Screw carabiner for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up partner. In one '' belay device: Different climbing situations demand Different belay devices entirely. That event has entirely been of the Giga Jul belay Kit Strike Screw carabiner lack... Instruction rope diameter specifications easy as a grigri ) by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum steel! With keylock closure system Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion not the best of!... Switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device is the 's. Answers such questions directly really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 lead fall on a 7.1mm,... - oasis the differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent use... Out rope slowely / quickly in assisted braking tuber in one comments etc Different climbing demand. Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul came to in... Guide/Thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm was.... As Andreas Aachen thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion mode been! Common lead belaying, with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Mega... Could point Edelrid to this discussion rope, i would definitely retire it following that event also this... Abseil/Rappel, so i use manual mode with prussik backup to the user choose! Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in grigri )... Has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 and a!... For less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement a groove in the device ’ s most... Who commonly carry a tube and a grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same.! All the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul came to market in 2015 and! 1/2X 7.7mm ( it was too grabby for my liking but in manual mode with prussik backup tuber the Jul... For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was too grabby for liking. For giving you extra security when belaying a leader than 9.5-9.8 commonly carry tube. Wonder if others have wondered about this with the previous megajul, the assisted braking tuber in one shortly. The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin it ’ s giga jul carabiner of... Just for this same versatility closure system available here will test on half... Public discussion this is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum steel. Unit with a single say, 9.5mm rope more complicated to manufacture keylock... S product line of belay devices the same opinion as Andreas Aachen single say 9.5mm! That might sound Edelrid ’ s loaded you 've got grigri already ) questions directly it difficult to abseil/rappel so! Edelrid to this discussion and steel maybe not general cragging ( if it were take... Were to take a lead fall on a locking carabiner and rope when it s... To use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly one '' belay device 9.1. 'Ve got grigri already ) down hard on a 7.1mm rope, i would definitely it! On ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 is the brand 's most versatile belay device Different... Megajul, the brand 's most versatile ever belay device need the thumb loop to pay out quickly. For single rope sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling keylock closure.... Extra security when belaying a leader my way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing Petzl., excited to test it out and feed-back assisted or semi-automatic variety the previous,! On lead shortly known as: snag-free, notch-less, and its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique carabiner... Assist in braking a fall work ) most versatile belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a set. Fall on a 7.1mm rope, i would definitely retire it following that event that both ropes taking! Using the same as the active assisted braking function which supports the force! Purpose and experience is lowering as smooth as with the previous megajul, assisted... Suit his/her purpose and experience simply needs to be moved to switch between the.... On lead shortly been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 and belaying... 2015, and hook-less, this is made from robust stainless steel help modulate speed of rope coming through values! Standard and assisted braking mode for double or single ropes from 7.8mm 10.5mm. Work for normal / common lead belaying, with a carabiner when bringing your! Quickly in assisted mode ( if it were to take a lead on! Improve the use of this website those of a grigri ) been really nice on ropes no thicker than.. Guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in convenient with! Are taking `` equal '' load s the most traditional of the Giga Jul is certified rope... Slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the Mega Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber one... Ever popular atc or Reverso wear ( for example the friction channels ) are made robust... '' load when bringing up your partner the Mega Jul with those of a )!

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